Activated carbon or bee venom – the cosmetics industry advertises with ever new additives that are supposed to rejuvenate the skin. Their effect is often controversial. What you should trust – and what not
It is a fingernail-sized dollop of cream that is often sufficient to turn stress into relaxation or fatigue into new energy. But the lotions, serums and sprays have a much more important mission: they should make us look young and for as long as possible. Every sixth woman regularly uses an anti-aging cream. The cosmetics industry is always looking for new exotic ingredients:
Snail secretion and bee venom promise a better skin firmness, algae are supposed to achieve a tightening effect, and according to the manufacturer activated carbon has a deep cleansing effect. What sounds promising, thousands of skin researchers worldwide in the most modern laboratories scientifically to prove, driven by the question: Which ingredients actually rejuvenate the skin?
It is clear what makes the skin age. Over the years, the production of elastin and collagen fibers in the organ decreases, it loses moisture and resilience. This process is accelerated by factors such as stress, an unhealthy lifestyle (nicotine, alcohol, lack of sleep, an unbalanced diet) and especially light.
Trend agents can trigger allergies
To protect against sunlight, vitamins C, E and B3 have been shown to be effective in studies. Doctors call them antioxidants. They reduce the concentration of free radicals in the body and thus counteract the elastin and collagen degradation. However, the Munich-based dermatologist Gerd Gauglitz can not gain anything from the hype about trendy ingredients such as bee venom. “Many supposedly newly discovered ingredients do not harm the skin, but can trigger allergies. I advise my patients to stay with the proven and clinically proven classics, “said the head of the Department of Aesthetic Dermatology and Laser Medicine at the Clinic of the Ludwig- Maximilians-University of Munich. That’s concrete
- Hyaluronic acid
Collagen and Q10
Vitamin A, C, E and B3
“The best guarantee for a young skin is a sunscreen in the daily care cream,” says Gauglitz.
“Clinically checked” is not meaningful
“The concentration of ingredients is often crucial to the effectiveness of products,” explains Martina Kerscher, a specialist in dermatology and a professor of cosmetic science at the University of Hamburg. If certain substances such as fruit acids or vitamin A (retinol) are overdosed, irritation and redness may occur.
If you want to know which ingredients are contained in a particular product in which concentration, you should read through the list of individual ingredients. The order gives information about the order of magnitude. The further ahead a substance stands, the higher the concentration – without indicating absolute and therefore reliable figures. Cosmetics are not subject to a strict efficacy control or state audit authority, such as drugs. To promote a product as an anti-aging agent, it is already sufficient that it has a sun protection factor.
Promotional promises like “clinically tested” or “dermatologically tested” are not meaningful. They only mean that an article was examined, not what results the researchers received – whether subjects have the cream well tolerated or if there was any effect. The secret of young skin is not found in the cream pot alone. A healthy lifestyle is as crucial as proper care. “Preventively protecting the skin as the most visible organ, as early as possible, is better than repairing it afterwards – that’s what industry and science agree on,” says Kerscher.